Hands-On With Smooth Leather Straps IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Fake Watches

The compact and cleverly designed IWC tourbillon with integrated constant force returns.

Although featuring a constant force tourbillon, moon phase and a four-day power reserve, the best-selling silver Arabic numerals replica IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon watch is a dialled down version of the most complicated (and expensive) IWC wristwatch ever made, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia introduced in 2011.

Powered by the same calibre 94800 found in the discontinued Ingenieur with the same features, the durable copy IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon has an aperture at nine o’clock that reveals the centrepiece of the movement, a large tourbillon regulator.

Though the tourbillon itself is large, the cage measures almost the radius of the dial and the balance wheel is only slightly smaller, the construction is compact, with the constant force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon.

Stainless Steel Cases IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Replica Watches

Developed in collaboration with complications developer Chronode – founder Jean-Francois Mojon worked at IWC for a decade before starting Chronode – the tourbillon has a tiny spring mounted under the escape wheel.

Once a second this spring accumulates and releases power from the mainspring, ensuring that the escapement is driven by a small, steady supply of energy. This in turn keep the balance beating at a constant amplitude, and also gives the tourbillon cage a rotation that moves in one-second steps.

That only holds for the first two days of the 96-hour power reserve, when the mainspring is sufficiently wound to provide enough power to keep the constant force mechanism going at an optimal rate. Once the two-day mark is passed, the constant force disengages and the tourbillon functions like a conventional tourbillon.

The constant force spring is visible on the left, under the escape wheel

At one o’clock is the double hemisphere moon phase, with the moon phase disc cast to resemble the cratered surface of the Moon. And just below that is the power reserve display.

Unlike the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia that incorporated a star chart on the back of the watch, which is why it is an enormous 17.5mm in height, the Swiss 46mm copy IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon is a relatively slim 13mm, even with the high domed sapphire crystal.

The case is a large 46mm, which gives it relatively elegant proportions though it is still a large watch.

The back reveals the movement and its workmanlike finish. Historically IWC has never been associated with decorative finishing – clever and concise engineering was its thing – so the functional appearance of the movement is in keeping with the brand’s identity.

Even if not fancy the movement is attractive, with variation of the surfaces finishes that create an appealing contrast. The overall finishing is careful, albeit applied by machine.

That being said, the styling of the movement, which is reminiscent of an automobile engine, doesn’t quite suit the classical design on the front. And that explanation for that is likely that the calibre 94800 was originally designed for the Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon, a high octane-high complication.

The modern fake IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon is customisable, with the client able to mix and match for the case, dial and strap. The case is available in red gold or platinum, with the choice of four metallic finish dial colours, as well as a wide range of straps. Further customisation beyond the options offered is possible, but likely at significant additional cost.

The prototype of the sturdy copy IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon is in stainless steel, which unfortunately is not an option for the watch. The lightness of the steel case makes it more wearable than the precious metal versions.

Price and availability 

The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon (ref. IW5901) is made to order, priced at S$325,000 in red gold and S$360,000 in platinum. Those are equivalent to US$230,000 and US$260,000 respectively.

Privée Pleasures: Worthy Replica Cartier Paris Collection Watches For Appreciation

Originally created to give collectors a chance to own vintage-looking Cartier watches, the timepieces in Collection Privée Cartier Paris have become highly sought after in their own right.

The Fine Watchmaking Collection, Cartier’s current high-end watch line, is a stunning series comprising complicated watches, which showcase the maison’s high-tech horology. The collection is made in Cartier’s own 30,000 square meter manufacture in La Chaud-de-Fonds and represents the very best that the brand has to offer today.

Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP), on the other hand, was much more a celebration of what the maison had achieved in design through the 20th century. The collection, which ran from 1998 to 2008, was based on the legendary case designs that the brand is so famous for. It fulfilled a desire on the part of collectors for vintage-looking best-quality fake Cartier watches online, with historic details and a movement belonging to the finest Swiss watchmaking tradition.

All movements within the CPCP series were from brands like Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Gérald Genta, Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) and Frédéric Piguet, and hand-assembled and inspected by a master watchmaker. high-performance copy Cartier took these high-grade movements and added its own finishing, such as the traditional Côtes de Genève motif and the interlaced Cartier double “C”. Many watches in the CPCP series had a display caseback to show the decoration of the movement, which became one of the signature elements of the CPCP collection.

 The watch faces were no less impressive, with each dial made in 18ct gold, covered with a silver layer and traditional guilloché varying from a very fine pattern on the smaller Santos-Dumont watches, to a more prominent design on the larger Tortue models. The rail track, Roman numerals and markings were all stamped directly on to the dial.

Many of Cartier’s early 20th-century watches had the word “PARIS” inscribed underneath the brand name, which gave the dial something extra that became much-sought after by collectors. In response, Cartier added the same word to almost all CPCP watches. Just one model had a dial without “PARIS” on it – the Tank Cintrée with Arabic numerals produced in both yellow gold and platinum. (The same version with Roman numerals came with the familiar inscription.)

Coming Up Roses

Another typical CPCP design feature that characterised the collection was the central rose motif. Just a few of the watches from the first CPCP launch in 1998, like the Santos Dumont, Tank Américaine, Tonneau and Tank Obus were delivered without the rose, but those models, relaunched in the following years, were redesigned to include the flower.

The rose motif and the “PARIS” engraving were important features that helped to push the series to another level; collectors always mention these details when CPCP is discussed. The same thing happened with the numbering on the back. During the first year, some models were delivered with standard numbering, while from the second year onwards, all models had an individual numbering and an indication of the number produced – of particular interest when the watch is a limited edition.

One of the stand-out models in the CPCP collection is, without a doubt, the Tank Louis Cartier, produced in its historic dimensions of 33.5mm by 25.5mm in yellow gold and in platinum. The watch has baton-style hands and is powered with the ultra-slim Cal. 021MC manual-winding movement by Piaget; the crown is set with an impressive sapphire. In 2006, that same watch was released as the Louis Cartier XL, powered by Piaget’s hand-wound 9701MC movement, visible through the display caseback of the 30mm by 39mm, rectangular rose-gold or platinum case. It was said that the total number of watches produced in pink gold remained below 300 pieces, while no more than 50 pieces were made in platinum. Unfortunately, this model was not a numbered limited edition.

The smallest CPCP men’s model was a re-issue of the Santos-Dumont 1913 in yellow gold, produced in a limited edition of 100 examples. Here, Cartier went a step further and supplied the watch with a vintage-style, non-adjustable folding buckle. The strap had to be custom-made to fit the client’s wrist. The dimensions of the case were 24mm by 34mm, and the timepiece was supplied with the 9780MC Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. It also had a stunning, not-often-seen, facet-cut sapphire crystal. A slightly larger Santos-Dumont at 27mm by 36mm was also available in platinum and yellow gold, powered by a hand-wound mechanical 021MC H3 Frédéric Piguet movement. Both models have Breguet hands and a closed caseback. And of course, “PARIS” was inscribed below the brand name.

Dating back to 1928, the monopoussoir complication was one of the first complications Cartier developed. The highly sought-after Tortue MP was the first model to incorporate this complication, and Cartier did a really good re-issue in yellow gold for the first CPCP release – almost like the original model, but with a slightly larger and more contemporary case. The comeback of the Tank Mono Poussoir was even more spectacular – a stunning but once-completely-unknown Tank dating back to 1935 that now became available in a limited edition of 100 pieces each in pink and white gold. The Tortue MP and the Tank MP shared the same 045MC movement, specially developed by François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter for these top copy Cartier models – and also used in the De Bethune DB1 monopusher chronograph.

Blue Hands Copy Cartier Paris Collection Watches

Tales Of The Unexpected

Cartier did not do much to publicise the Collection Privée and we can only guess at the reason. But it looks like the low-production series sold out very quickly. The limited editions were usually produced in less than 100 pieces and the non-limited editions often did not number more than 250 to 300 pieces. At the time the internet was not the fount of all watch knowledge that it is today and there were certainly no watch blogs, so it was not as easy for collectors to find out what new models had been launched. The boutiques were supplied with a little brochure, but it was not updated on an annual basis as most contemporary catalogues are.

To make it even more confusing, some CPCP models were launched only in a certain territory or for a special occasion – for instance, the Tank Chinoise Double Fuseau that was made for China had all the typical CPCP details like the rose and “PARIS” on the dial, and was produced in 100 pieces each, in pink and white gold. But outside of Asia, no one was aware of its existence. It was a remarkable travel watch, specifically created to celebrate the relations between France and China.

Other amazing examples were the few pieces that were exclusively sold by the Cartier flagship store at 13 Rue de la Paix. The Paris boutique had long been closed for renovations, and when it reopened in 1999, with huge parties to celebrate its 100th anniversary, there were a few very special watches made to commemorate the occasion. One of the most well-known and important pieces was the Tortue Mono Poussoir in white gold, with a salmon-coloured dial and a big Arabic numeral “13” – instead of a Roman numeral XII – and produced in an edition of just 13 pieces.

Much more bizarre was the Driver watch that dates back to 1936 and was barely launched commercially. It was a very small and strangely curved watch that measured just 19mm by 34mm. Due to that  curved shape and the fact that the folding buckle is attached to the case, it can only be worn on the side of the wrist; so when holding the steering wheel, there is no need to turn the wrist to check the time. It was a so-called “back winder”, which has a flat crown that sits on the back of the watch. The Driver had a salmon-coloured guilloché dial, with a large Arabic “13”, just like the Tortue Mono Poussoir.

An interesting addition to the Collection Privée came with the release of the Tank à Vis, which was presented as a new model with a whole new name. In fact, the Tank à Vis – launched as a series of four different models – was a modern interpretation of the Tank Étanche, with a similar case design. This new model is the only Tank in the collection that has a bezel, but the Cartier designers created a small difference between the vintage and the new model, and gave the Tank à Vis four screws on the lunette.

Cartier did a really nice job with the relaunch of the Tank Asymétrique and the Tonneau. The Tank Asymétrique – or Parallélogramme, as it was called in the 1930s – was a driver’s watch that was known for its various models with different lug constructions. The bridge constructions that Cartier chose for the Collection Privée were by far the most gorgeous of the Asymétrique collection. With its Breguet-styled hands and larger case in yellow gold, the limited-edition series – a mere 150 pieces – was sold out in a very short time.

 Male Models

In its early years, the Tonneau was a very popular and dandy model, but fell out of favour in the 1980s, mainly because the case and very narrow strap were just too damn elegant. For the CPCP series, elegant fake Cartier enlarged the case of the Tonneau, gave it all the historical details – like the rose and Breguet-styled hands – and came up with a very smart construction to make the strap wider. Instead of keeping the leather strap at the same width throughout, it became 1mm wider beyond the lugs. It gave the strap a much wider appearance, and the watch became a cool man’s timepiece that met the demand for larger and more masculine models.

CPCP was cheap copy Cartier’s first serious attempt to reach the male watch consumer/collector, and it was the foundation of haute horlogerie on a larger scale; but it also became the start of something else – a new extraordinary way of packaging watches that was soon followed by the entire industry. While men’s watches were usually sold in small and often square boxes at the beginning of the 1980s, the watches in the CPCP series came in rich red boxes that were three times as large, with room for cufflinks and rings. The inside was lined with black velvet; champagne-coloured if the watch was bought from the 13 Rue de la Paix store. Together with this large box, the new owner also received a smaller, polished hardwood presentation box, and a suede travel pouch with cloth and loupe. It is a handsome kit that one almost never receives when a CPCP watch is found at an auction or dealer. These wooden boxes are real collector’s items.

Cartier Paris Fake Watches With Black Roman Numerals
The collection came to an end in 2008 when Cartier realised that a high-end watch line could only be successful when all movements and parts are produced in-house at their own manufacture in La Chaux de-Fonds. That was also the year the Fine Watchmaking Collection was launched, starting with the 47mm Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon that was pre-released in 2007, a few months before the official launch of the collection.

A huge amount of love was put into the watches, with a perfect eye making sure that the details were as close to those of the original historic pieces as possible without compromising collectors’ preferences for slightly larger and more wearable cases. When we consider that there are now over 300 Cartier mono-brand boutiques worldwide, plus all the concessions, the numbers produced in the past were really seriously limited. Collection Privée Cartier Paris replica watch with Swiss movements sales may be history now, but it has, without doubt, become the next best thing to collect when it comes to vintage Cartier timepieces.

When it comes to obtaining a pre-owned Collection Privée Cartier Paris watch, or perhaps a vintage watch from the 1930s, it is good to know that the new Manufacture Cartier is always able to restore the watch to its original beauty. From glass to crown, and from hairspring to balance wheel, knowing that the manufacture has this technological finesse makes the decision to buy a vintage watch less difficult.

Unique Fake Rolex Sky-Dweller Watches Designed In Steel And Gold

The latest edition of Baselworld confirmed the obvious: two-tone is dead! Where generally at least a few brand carry the steel-gold variety, now there were no prominent watches offered in this combination. The exception to this rule is, however, Rolex, who introduced the replica Rolex Sky-Dweller watch with champagne dial online not only in steel but also in steel-gold.

So why did Rolex launch one of their most complicated, and may we say landmark, new models in a combination of metal’s that seems to be out of fashion? Because for Rolex steel-gold has traditionally been an important part of the brand identity. They even have a name of their own for it: Rolesor. In a way, Two-Tone Rolex fake watches with self-winding movements represent what Rolex is standing for. On the steel-side, they are robust, with their waterproof Oyster-cases and overengineered movements. On the gold-side, they are probably the most recognized watch in the world, and with the exception of the sports models, they always have this well-dressed look about them.

Two-Tone is also a bridge between the steel and full-gold models. They offer a more luxurious look over steel, yet with a far more friendlier price tag than the all gold model. It is a watch for people who want the best of both worlds, as well as a look that has become almost synonymous with Rolex.

Traditionally Rolex offers their Rolesor models with a champagne colored dial (although there are most certainly other options available). This enhances the gold-look of the watch, and quite frankly, also the Rolex-factor. It has a velvet look to it, and the ring for the second time zone is made in the same color. The date is kept in a lighter color so it is easy to read, although I would have loved to see it with the same champagne background as Swiss high-quality Rolex copy watch used to do with this type of dial. That being said, it adds a little bit of a more sportive feel to it, as it corresponds with the luminova filled hour indexes, as well as the white indicators of the annual calendar.

The top Rolex fake watch also has always been disconnected with fashion, and rather creates it own. That is why it seemingly pays very little attention to what other brands are doing, but rather focusses on their own customers. These customers have long been pleased by a brand that might be called conservative, yet shows time and time again how well in touch it is with its own DNA. And that DNA includes two-tone watches, even when this category is more of less dead to the rest of the industry.

Hands-On With The Fake IWC Da Vinci Laureus Chronograph Watches With Blue Dials Online

The simplest chronograph in the new Da Vinci collection also happens to be a limited edition.

The redesigned IWC Da Vinci collection introduced earlier this year leaned towards big ticket complications and entry-level models, but not much in-between, except for the Da Vinci Chronograph “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation”. Steel and equipped with a proprietary movement, the Arabic numeral copy  IWC Da Vinci Laureus Chronograph watch sales is the sort of reasonably accessible (with a bit of saving) wristwatch that IWC does well.

The Da Vinci Laureus the latest in an annual series of limited editions conceived to raise funds for the eponymous charity that brings sport to disadvantaged youth. This is the 11th in the series and more expensive than the average Laureus edition because of the proprietary calibre 89361 inside.

At 42mm in diameter and 14.5mm high, the Swiss steel case  replica IWC Da Vinci Laureus is a largish watch, on the verge of being too big but not quite. It’s helped by the articulated lugs, which allow it to feel smaller on the wrist, though there is no escaping the height of the case.

One reason for the height is the domed sapphire crystal, a touch that’s meant to invoke vintage watches. The onion-shaped crown is probably meant to do the same, and it suits the overall design. Both chronograph pushers also have onion-shaped rings at their base, presumably to match the shape of the crown. But the buttons are not screw-down pushers, making the rings perhaps unnecessary aesthetic additions.

The case is entirely polished, front, back and even the lugs, which is less interesting than having alternating brushed and mirror finished surfaces. The rationale for this finish is likely the design inspiration for today’s Da Vinci: its namesake of 1985 that was similarly shaped and also entirely polished (save for uncommon examples in steel that were entirely brushed).

While every year’s Laureus edition is different, all share the same dark blue dial. Varying from a dark to medium blue depending on the light, the dial has a metallic finish that’s easy to like.

Finished with a radial brushing, it has applied numerals, white printing and red accents. Up close, several details stand out. The chapter ring carrying the minute track has a circular grained finish, serving to frame the central portion of the dial. Both chronograph registers have a stamped concentric pattern (or azurage), which is standard for chronograph watches but give the dial texture. And both chronograph sub-dials are also ringed by a metallic border, an element that echoes the hands and numerals.

Positioned at the quarters of the dial, the red accents don’t appear to serve any functional purpose, which can be annoying for a nitpicker, but they make for a pleasing colour palette.

Notably, the numerals on the dial are all of a serif font specific to the IWC Da Vinci fake watch with black strap, right down to the date disc. It evolved from the custom font created specially for the previous generation Da Vinci, which had significant attention put into its conception but nonetheless ended up a chunky, tonneau-shaped watch that did not sell well. Fortunately the new Da Vinci sticks to a tried and tested shape, while preserving the unusual font that’s a mix of classical and contemporary.

Being white, the date disc is jarring against the blue dial with a somewhat odd position – a consequence of the movement size relative to the case – but at least preserves the symmetry of the dial.

In the tradition of the Laureus watches, the solid back is decorated with an etched reproduction of a child’s drawing. Every year the Laureus foundation – which has both IWC and Mercedes-Benz as sponsors – runs a contest to select a drawing for the following year’s limited edition wristwatch. Last year’s content was won by Hou Ye, a 12-year old from Shanghai who’s a Paralympian at the Special Olympics East Asia. Ye’s winning entry is a self portrait showing him on skis.

Underneath the back is the calibre 89361, part of the 89000-calibre family of movements. Positioned as IWC’s upper-end chronograph movement, the calibre 89361 has a solid list of features.

That includes all the bells and whistles expected in a mid- to high-end chronograph movement, namely a vertical clutch, column wheel, and also a useful 68-hour power reserve. Additionally, it has a flyback function, as well as the hour and minute counters being co-axial on the register at 12 o’clock, explaining the relatively clean dial. Also worth mentioning are the free-sprung balance as well as IWC’s own Pellaton winding mechanism.

The movement is the primary reason this costs what it does. In contrast, IWC’s entry-level chronograph movement, which is based on the economical Valjoux 7750, is found in the new Ingenieur and that costs a third less than the Da Vinci.

That being said, it’s probable that IWC will introduce a cheap replica IWC Da Vinci chronograph in the regular collection in the near future (think steel case paired with a silver or grey dial), which will cost less than the Laureus limited edition.

Price and availability 

The Da Vinci Chronograph “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation” (ref. IW393402) carries a price tag of US$12,700 or S$19,100. It is already available at IWC boutiques and will reach authorised retailers soon.

Well-Rounded: The Rotonde De Cartier Chronograph Replica Watches With Black Roman Numerals

We study the styling of the Swiss stainless steel case fake Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph watch and test its in-house movement in this review from the WatchTime archives. Original photos are by OK-Photography.

At first look, $9,050, the price of the Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph, seems to be a lot to pay for a steel chronograph. But it’s only a little higher than the cost of a Zenith El Primero or an IWC Portugieser chronograph. And while we’re comparing: the El Primero is a half century old already, and the ETA 7750 that runs the comparable Portugieser chronograph is almost that old and isn’t an in-house movement. Cartier unveiled its 1904-CH MC, the caliber inside the classic fake Cartier watch, in 2013. Unlike the El Primero, it has a stop-seconds function. And although it doesn’t have a running seconds hand, its dial looks well balanced thanks to elapsed-time counters at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The 1904-CH MC is made so that the chronograph’s central elapsed-seconds hand can also be used as a running seconds hand. The two barrels maintain a constant level of drive torque independently of the winding status of their mainsprings, which ensures rate stability and precision. Our rate measurements show that the good rate continues when the chronograph is running. The results remain more or less identical after the watch has been allowed to run for 24 hours without additional winding. If the  Cartier copy watch with black alligator strap online is worn regularly, it will usually have fully wound mainsprings. The rotor, which turns smoothly in a sturdy ceramic ball bearing, winds the movement in both its directions of rotation. Bidirectional winding is achieved using an alternator with an innovative pawl-click system, which accelerates the winding speed.

The stopwatch function is controlled via a column wheel with vertical coupling. You can view the column wheel by peering through the sapphire window in the caseback and then looking even more deeply into the movement through an aperture in the upper bridge. The chronograph’s functions are triggered using two elongated push-pieces. Their large size makes the stopwatch easy to operate and the column wheel ensures that all switching sequences run smoothly.

The zero-return function is blocked while the chronograph is running. Cartier achieved this by installing a linear heart lever inside the movement. The lever ensures the simultaneous return of all elapsed-time hands to their zero positions independently of the pressure exerted on the push-piece. The vertical coupling ensures that the chronograph starts and stops precisely. But despite the high technology, Cartier hasn’t ignored aesthetic finesse. In addition to Geneva waves and satin finishing, circular graining embellishes even the hidden sides of various components. The fine adjustment system for the balance is an eye-catcher, too: the C-shaped regulator with eccentric screw not only facilitates ultra-precise setting; it also underscores the brand’s identity.

Roman numerals on the dial and “Cartier” in signature type above the two subdials emphasize the brand’s identity, too. (It’s rather challenging to neatly print the brand’s name on the silver-plated and guilloché-embellished brass background.) A sunray pattern adorns the main dial, while concentric circles decorate the subdials. The minutes are counted along a railway-style circle using Arabic numerals at five-minute intervals; the hours are shown by Roman numerals and index strokes.

These details contrast with the satin-finished flange around the dial’s perimeter, where elapsed seconds are marked according to the 4-Hz rhythm of the caliber. Seconds are shown by a slim, needle-like hand, which complements the two Breguet-style hour and minutes hands. The result is a harmonious set of blued stainless-steel hands, which are easy to read by day. The blued hands match the pointed blue spinel cabochon atop the winding crown, another characteristic of Cartier replica watches with automatic movements sales. The crown is easy to grasp thanks to its shape and the beading around its edge. Both features enhance the sporty-elegance of the case. The large push-pieces and screw-fastened strap lugs look sporty, while elegance is seen in the conical lines of the middle part of the case, which tapers toward the back, where the sapphire window is affixed via screws. The case is water-resistant, but unfortunately only to 30 meters.

The watch has a high-quality leather strap that inserts without stops from both sides into a folding clasp that pivots on one side only. This lets the wearer customize the fit of the strap, which has a certain lightness and is comfortable to wear. It takes a bit of force to open the clasp, which responds to a strong tug on its bow, which is shaped like the “C” in the “Cartier” name.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Cartier SA, Chemin des Alisiers 10, 2300, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
Reference number: WSRO0002
Functions: Hours, minutes, central elapsed seconds, counters for 30 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed hours, date display
Movement: In-house Caliber 1904-CH MC, automatic, 28,800 vph, Glucydur balance, Incabloc shock absorption, fine adjustment via eccentric screw in a C-shaped spring, 48-hour power reserve, diameter = 26.8 mm, height = 5.7 mm
Case: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal, sapphire window in caseback, water-resistant to 30 meters

Strap and clasp: Alligator strap with folding clasp that pivots on one side only
Rate results (deviations in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours)
Dial up  +7.6/+4.6
Dial down  +7.8/+2.7
Crown up  -2.0/+0.8
Crown down  +5.3/+5.7
Crown left  -1.7/0.0
Greatest deviation of rate  9.8/5.7
Average deviation  +3.4/+2.8
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 316°/296°
Hanging positions 264°/253°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm, height = 12.2 mm, weight = 82 grams
Variations: With rose-gold case ($23,700); with white-gold case ($25,400, limited edition of 300 pieces)
Price: $9,050

All you need to know about the Replica Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm Ref. 126600 – Why it is like it is?

Sure, we expected ‘something’ to happen with the Sea-Dweller this year. What Rolex actually decided upon however, came as a complete surprise and was even considered controversial by some. It may not be the watch some long-time Rolex collectors were hoping for, however, the new Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm Ref. 126600 has still definitely been one of the main talking pieces of Baselworld 2017, not unlike the Ceramic / Steel Daytona, which made headlines in 2016. Unlike the star of last year’s novelties though, the main novelty from Rolex for 2017 is arguably a little less easy to understand. That’s why we’re going in-depth (Monochrome style), giving you all possible explanations for the direction and design of the new Swiss black dial fake Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm Ref. 126600, a watch that maybe needs more than just a quick glance to be fully understood.

When Rolex does something, there’s always a good reason behind it. Whether you like the brand or not, you cannot say they do a half job – even if on very rare occasions, they have to correct one or two details (see the 2016 Explorer I.) Whenever one change is made or one feature added to a watch, the motivation is simple: make it better or make it more coherent. With the new online  cheap copy Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm Ref. 126600, some people (actually quite a lot of people) have been surprised by several features; the larger diameter and the cyclops over the date window being the main points of controversy. Of course, we asked the question, and of course Rolex had a clear explanation for “everything new” in this Sea-Dweller 126600. Here’s what we heard… plus of course our take on things!

50 Years of Innovation and Constant Evolution

The Sea-Dweller’s history is linked to the history of dive watches and of scuba diving on its own. Following WWII, diving became an increasingly popular sport, or recreational activity, thus necessitating the further development of dive watches. Soon, dive watches became available for both military, professional and civilian recreational divers. The Submariner ref. 6200 was the world’s first commercially produced dive watch, which was released in 1954, with a 100m water resistance (later 200m and 300m). In the early 1960s, experiments on saturated diving had started and immediately the need for watches with greater water resistance emerged. At that time, the Submariner ref. 5513 could withstand 200 meters of depth, but the goal of Rolex was to triple the depth rating.

The First version of the Sea-Dweller, 1967

Experiments were carried out by Rolex in collaboration with COMEX (a professional diving company), for the creation of a feature that would later become the hallmark of the Sea-Dweller: the helium escape valve. It was first introduced on the Submariner ref. 5514, and shortly after, in 1967, Rolex introduced the Sea-Dweller ref. 1665. This was actually the first Sea-Dweller and became the recognizable diver watch with helium escape valve. The early models from 1967 (production estimated to approx. 100 pieces) were very similar to the Submariner 5514 COMEX that was retrofitted with a helium escape valve. Characteristics are a “double red” dial with “Submariner 2000” and a “patent pending” case back (as Rolex had filed for patent, but had not yet received the patent on the helium valve). Very rare examples can be seen in the “single red” version. These prototypes (with estimated production of 4 watches) were rated for 500m.

A rare “single red” version of the Sea-Dweller, rated for 500m

Over the decades, the Sea-Dweller has evolved through a number of different models. The “Double Red” Sea-Dweller (with the aforementioned “Submariner 2000”) was produced from 1971 to 1977, still with a 2000ft / 610m water resistance and “patent pending” caseback. In 1977, the Rolex Sea-Dweller evolves again, becoming the “great white”. No red indication anymore, no mention of “Submariner 2000” anymore, with the idea being to better differentiate between the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller watches. In 1978, alongside the ref. 1665, Rolex introduced the ref. 16660 Sea-Dweller fitted with a sapphire crystal, a bigger helium release valve and an upgraded depth rating to 4,000 feet or 1,220 metres. Finally, in 1988, Rolex launched the Ref. 16600, with the modern calibre 3135, solid end-links on the bracelet and a glossy dial. The ref. 16600 was discontinued twenty years later, in 2008, and replaced by the Sea-Dweller Deepsea.

Left- The Sea-Dweller 2014, 40mm diameter ref. 116600 – Right- The Sea-Dweller 2017, 43mm diameter ref. 126600 (note the red inscription and cyclops)

In 2008, Rolex stopped the production of the Sea-Dweller 4000ft to focus on a watch with even greater water resistance and a a stronger professional orientation: the Sea-Dweller Deepsea, offering 12,000 feet or 3,900 metres of water resistance, a 44mm case and of course the helium escape valve. While technically more advanced and more efficient, this watch couldn’t replace the SD in the heart of collectors and so the Sea-Dweller 4000 came back into production in 2014 as ref. 116600. The now discontinued ref. 116600 has the same 1,220 meters water resistance, the helium valve and features a slimmer case, a ceramic bezel and a Glidelock bracelet, and of course white text on the black dial, no cyclops and a 40mm case.

The 43mm Diameter of the Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600

The first, and probably main, topic of discussion for the new Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 is its size, a large diameter of 43mm to be precise. This is not the first time that Rolex has made a large watch (see the 44mm Deepsea), but usually, there’s a technical reason behind an increased case size. For decades, the standard diameter of sports watches at the best Rolex replica watches has been 40mm, a quite reasonable and wearable size, suitable for most. You can find this size on the Submariner, on the GMT-Master II, on the Yacht-Master, and… on the previous Sea-Dweller ref. 116600.

The Sea-Dweller has always been a bit in the shadow of the Submariner. Maybe that’s because both models are not only visually but also size-wise extremely close. With the 2014 edition, there might have been a “differentiation issue”, because the SD4K (Sea-Dweller 4,000ft) is a bit thicker than the Submariner, but it has more elegant lugs. The only other differences are the absence of a cyclops, a slightly more precise scale on the bezel and the different (higher) depth-rate with helium escape valve (1,220m vs. 300m). Still, in modern days, this water-resistance factor makes less sense than in the 1960s, as few of us are really using a Rolex as a professional piece of equipment to dive (affordable and very reliable diving computers are widely used these days). You might have guessed then the point of the 43mm diameter: differentiation! It will be the answer for certain markets, where people prefer larger watches (US mainly), and it adds some emphasis on the robust tool-watch look.

In order to create a real contrast between the these dive watches that are the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller, Rolex chose to make the latter larger – it is a deliberate choice, motivated and well thought out (Rolex doesn’t usually do things in a rush). Like it or not, the mild success of the previous 40mm Ref. 116600 required a correction. Thus, the new Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 becomes larger, not only in diameter but the whole watch has grown: larger case of course, larger bracelet (22mm instead of 20mm), larger bezel, larger indexes, larger hands, larger buckle (correcting one of the flaws of the 116600, with a too thin buckle). Overall, Rolex wanted to keep proportions intact and to stick to the look of the Sea-Dweller, even if it’s larger.

Technically, the Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 shows no changes: same 1,220m / 4,000ft water resistance, still the iconic helium escape valve on the left side of the case (the hallmark of the model), still the 60-minute scale on the ceramic bezel, with one-minute markers from 0 to 60 (not on the Submariner), same display, same Triplock crown, same prominent caseback, same buckle with long diving extension, same overall quality and feeling of having a proper “tool” on the wrist.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 on a small wrist (below 17cm / 6.7 inches)

Talking about “on the wrist“… how does this watch look in its natural habitat? Well, to be honest, I have small wrists and I usually love smaller watches. I’m a regular wearer of 40mm Rolex copy watches for sale or 41mm Tudor dive watches, and they have, to me, perfect proportions, offering a nice balance between sporty and a certain elegance that you want when wearing a luxury watch. Yet, the Sea-Dweller 126600 has to be regarded differently, as a proper tool watch. So the bigger case does not bother me that much. Moreover, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the way it looks on the wrist (see the photo above… It’s large but not overly large).

The case has been redesigned and the lugs are shorter and more curved, thus suitable for smaller wrists too. Of course, people with 19cm / 7.5 inches or bigger wrists will be even more pleased. Then, there’s the balance on the wrist. Some found the previous 40mm Sea-Dweller slightly unbalanced on the wrist, because it was ‘only’ 40mm and rather thick; too thick for such a diameter, making this watch quite wobbly when worn. The new 43mm feels more stable. Surprising, but it really does. In the end, the 43mm diameter will have supporters and critics, but you can’t deny the two factors: a clear differentiation from the Submariner and more comfort on the wrist.

The Single Red Dial

Things are changing at Rolex. I dare to say it, but this simple red line of text on the dial is an important move for the brand. What would have been insignificant for most other brands, is for Rolex quite a revolution (relatively speaking of course…) Jokes aside, the brand has evolved over the past 2 – 3 years, with the addition of a rubber bracelet, a rather unexpected dial on the Air King (and yes, it is a success in stores) and the unavowed vintage-inspired Daytona Steel / Ceramic. This “Single Red” feature is in that same vein, a subtle reference to model’s origins.

Without saying that Rolex is about to introduce a Heritage Collection (no spoiler alert…), it seems that the “Crown” does want to please some collectors and to reassure them with small but iconic details, such as panda dials or this red model name. This makes even more sense on this steel bracelet fake Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600, launched exactly 50 years after the introduction of the model in 1967. Rolex, without losing its innovative spirit of “always looking forward”, could rely more often on such small details to create hype around certain models. This “single red” dial must be the most appreciated feature in this new version.

The Cyclops on the Date Window

Now comes the other feature that created heated discussion about the Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600: the cyclops over the date window. This was clearly unexpected and somehow contradicted the idea of the original model, which has always been without the magnifying cyclops. Still, its appearance has to be explained, and it is justified by Rolex and its DNA.

If you take a close look at the Rolex collection, you’ll notice that every single watch in the collection that features a date window comes with a cyclops (Datejust, Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, Submariner Date, Explorer II, GMT-Master II, Yacht-Master 40). There’s only one exception: the Sea-Dweller Deepsea. The date magnifier is entirely part of the brand’s DNA. It has been absent on the Sea-Dweller for all these years, however not for aesthetic reasons, but for technical reasons. Whether we look at the vintage versions with Plexiglas or more modern editions with sapphire, the 120-bar pressure that the Sea-Dweller had to withstand was so high that the cyclops would simply break from the crystal.

Now, you have to think with Rolex neurons… Which means that “if technically we are able to do it, there’s no reason not to do it“. Plus, as we said, the cyclops is an iconic feature of Rolex watches with a date. And now that Rolex has found a solution (no detailed explanations were given by the brand, other than that it had been achieved), which enables it to have a cyclops that can resist the pressure endured by the Sea-Dweller, there is no longer any reason for the brand not to glue it on the SD’s crystal. It might be quite disappointing for some collectors, however when you look at things through the eyes of the “Crown”, it simply makes sense. (note: the Deepsea is now the only date-equipped model without a cyclops, for 2 reasons – the immense pressure it is designed to withstand makes it impossible to have this feature, plus the crystal is not flat but domed). Now the question of whether you like/dislike it is a personal one, and final clients will be the only real judges of the relevance of the added cyclops.

The New Generation of Rolex Movement (Calibre 3235)

This is the feature that everyone seems to agree on: the Calibre 3235. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 will be the first watch of the professional collection to benefit from the new generation of movements, the 32xx introduced first on the 2015 Day-Date and later used on the 2016 Datejust. From now on, it seems that every new Rolex watch (entirely new ones, not just new dials…) will benefit from this upgrade. And honestly, as good as the older 31xx movements are, this new-gen is simply better in all aspects.

Compared to the previous series of movements, the Calibre 3235 has 90% new parts: new barrel, new gear train, new escapement, new bridges and plates, new rotor, new automatic winding system. Not only the parts are new but most of them come with modern technologies, with a clear efficiency goal.

The 3235 has 70 hour power reserve, thanks to a more efficient escapement (dubbed Chronergy, which increases the efficiency of the escapement by 15%, and contributes to almost half of the gain in power reserve), an optimized gear train, with high-performance lubricants with a longer useful life and greater stability over time (less friction, less wear, less energy consumption), a high-capacity barrel (with a longer main-spring without changing the size of the barrel), blue Parachrom hairspring (resistant to magnetic fields), in-house high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, large balance wheel with variable inertia and finally new self-winding module, for a more rapid winding of the new high-capacity mainspring.

The overall finishing has been improved, with bevelled bridges, circular brushing, jewels in gold chatons and other details that make this movement better looking than the previous 3135. Of course, as with all Rolex movements, the Calibre 3235 is a Superlative Chronometer (-2 / +2 seconds per day) and comes with a 5-year warranty.

Conclusion

The new replica Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 has created some debates, raised some some questions and shown a stronger evolution than what we’ve seen in the past. And I personally think that is a good thing. I guess that we (journalists, collectors, watch lovers, owners) might have had a rather narrow, conservative, expectation from the brand. This watch, alongside the provocative Air-King or the much-hyped Daytona Steel / Ceramic, shows a new strategy – nothing brutal, still relying on the DNA of the brand, but more in line with the expectations of the market.

In fact, I think Rolex will benefit from a bit of controversy, instead of doing products that most will like, but few will love or hate. We have to remember that the purchase of a €10k watch is mainly driven by emotion and with the Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600, Rolex comes back to more emotional, yet more segmented products. The SD has always been rather niche in the collection and for such a product, most decisions the brand made about this 2017 edition seem quite coherent.

And to answer the unavoidable question: do you like it? Well, I would say that my first reaction was been on the negative side, however now, after a few days, I have to admit that it is growing on me. I guess that Rolex might have made the right decision here, with a more tool-like, professional style.

Ladies Watches Of The Week: Fake IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moonphase Watches

With the introduction of the new Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, IWC also revised the Da Vinci line-up for ladies. While this may surprise some, the women’s models always had an unyielding position in the Da Vinci-line up, a tradition that IWC continues now with the automatic moon phase ladies model.


One of the earlier Da Vinci models for women was also featured a moon phase. It was powered by a so-called mecca-quartz movement, which consists out of a quartz movement, but with a mechanical chronograph and moon phase indicator. For their latest copy IWC watch with Arabic numerals forgo not only the chronograph function but also the battery needed to power it.

IWC Da Vinci Fake Watches With Diamond Bezels

Instead, they fitted it with Caliber 35800, and automatic movement, with a 42-hour power reserve and a moon phase complication at 12 o’clock. With a moon phase, the number of teeth on the mechanism determines the precision. IWC fitted the one in the Da Vinci with 59, which means that you have to adjust it one day in about every two years, seven and a half months.


Next, to the moon phase, two other things stand out with the Da Vinci. First, there is the perfect size of 36mm. This ensures that the replica watch with top Swiss movement retains its feminine elegance, yet at the same time has quite a presence on the wrist without being uncomfortable large. Comfort and wrist presence are also ensured by the movable lugs, a trademark of the very first Da Vinci. Between those lugs is an alligator strap fitted, made by Santoni, and featuring stunning brown color tones. IWC designed to make the Da Vinci 36 Automatic Moon Phase a watch for every day. They not only succeed in this by making the watch comfortable and practical but by also making it beautiful they turned this from an option into a desire.

Special Fake Watch Of The Week: Clé De Cartier Skeleton

The introduction of the Fine Watchmaking Collection by Cartier did several things for the brand, and one of them was making them known for their refined skeleton watches. This was a complication Cartier previously rarely ventured into, with only a few examples known in their history, many of them piece unique.

Over the last couple of years, Cartier did show that they can make an incredible skeleton watch. For this they followed the same recipe: they created bridges which look like Roman numerals (a Cartier signature since the brand was founded) Because Cartier is also the brand of the shaped cases, many of these movements had to be completely redesigned, as the movement has to fit the case precisely. Then you get watches as the Crash Skeleton, Santos-Dumont Skeleton, and this Clé de Cartier Skeleton.

Visually the watch is very pleasing because Cartier kept it so pure. It’s the movement and two blued sword hands, nothing more. They compliment the shape of the Clé case very nicely and make the Swiss high-quality Cartier replica watch with balck alligator strap look modern, without being too edgy.

Unlike the other skeleton, copy Clé De Cartier watches with blue hands  does the Clé de Cartier Skeleton has something that they don’t. The movement is an automatic, drawing its power from the skeletonized rotor on the back. Cartier did such a good job on this, that it is very hard to notice the 22K white gold rotor, as only a very small part of it is visible when you wear the watch on the wrist.

The beauty about this Clé de Cartier Skeleton is that although Cartier doesn’t really have a heritage when it comes to these type of watches, it does fit seamlessly into their brand profile. This creative fake Cartier watch online can only be mistaken for one thing, and that is a Cartier, and what a beautiful Cartier it is!

Brand-new Swiss Rolex Cellini Moonphase Replica Watches

First introduced in 2014, the Rolex Cellini collection includes models with complications such date display and dual time. This year Rolex goes one step further and presents a fascinating moon phase model.

Showcased at Baselworld 2017, the new white dial fake Rolex Cellini Moonphase watch is offered in a 39 mm Everose gold case which frames a white lacquer dial with a blue enamelled disc at 6 o’clock showing the full moon and the new moon, the former depicted by a meteorite applique and the latter by a silver ring.
The moonphase is read via the indicator set at 12 o’clock on the subdial, as the full moon and new moon rotate through the lunar cycle. The Rolex replica watch with Everose gold case also displays the date around the circumference of the dial, via a centre hand with a crescent moon at its tip. Hands and indices are crafted from pink gold.

The new model is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement entirely manufactured by Rolex, whose patented moonphase module is astronomically accurate for 122 years. Beating at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz), it offers 48 hours of power reserve.

Water resistant to 50 metres / 165 feet, the practical Rolex copy watch comes with an international five-year warranty and is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification which applies to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing a precision of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day (more than twice that required of an official chronometer).

Fitted on a brown alligator leather strap with a folding clasp in Everose gold, a first for this line, the Rolex Cellini Moonphase Ref. 50535 has a suggested retail price of around Euro 24,500 / US$ 26,750 and will be available starting from next October. rolex.com